With the rise of futuristic and new wrist watch systems such as quartz, the design of watches was expected to express on the outside the futurism hidden inside. As mentioned in the parent section, the Italian firm Bertone was specialised in car design, but ultimately joined forces with the Swiss Buler factory, which was already marketing quite futuristic mechanically driven watches with ‘digital’ display.
The motivation for Bertone to approach such a watch manufacturer was to provide the customers of the ‘Lancia Stratos HF’ (1973 – 1978) the possibility to acquire a matching watch to their car, which would act as effective marketing tool.
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Nuccio Bertone or Marcello Gandini (Bertone) and Buler, Ref.: 01003 Prototype, 1975
Categories: Mock – up
Description: Symmetrical, octagonally shaped prototype. The main case body of ABS plastic, capped with thin, stainless steel sheets. The metal sheets are stamped with horizontal ridges. Between the metallic sheets a transparent, red plastic cover for the display, with printed piece of paper underneath simulating an LED type display. Stainless steel ‘snap’ case back. Sticker on the outside of the case back with printed ‘Metallique S.A.’ and case reference number ‘75309’ in blue and ‘B’ in red. Dummy of movement within. Pushers at ‘2’ and ‘4’ at the border of the case.
Dimensions: 38mm (without pushers), lug – lug: 42mm, lug width: 20mm
Movement: no movement, replaced by a black ABS dummy
Additional info: This is a preliminary study for what will be issued in 1976 as ref.: 01003 within a series of LED watches signed by Bertone and produced by the Buler Watch Company. As mentioned above, these watches were intended to be sold to buyers of a ‘Lancia Stratos HF’ car starting 1976. As 492 cars have been produced from 1973 to 1974, it is safe to assume, that about 1500 watches were made covering the prospective car sales from 1976 to 1978. The Bertone Stratos LED watch series was presented at the Basle Fair 1976 on the Buler Watch Company stand.
This preliminary study differs considerably from the produced watch, but retains many design elements from the car, such as the horizontally ridged metal panels which are inspired by the slotted plastic cover of the rear windshield of the car. Also the angular shape of the watch suggests the angular shapes seen on the ‘Lancia Stratos HF’ and ‘Zero’ designs and would be a recognisable feature of most car designs of Marcello Gandini during the 1970s.
The integration of the bracelet follows the usual design of such LED watches and 1970s sports watches in general, whereas the plain link shape of the bracelet mirrors the horizontal ridges of the metal panels covering the watch body. This piece represents a pure design prototype, it had not yet been decided which electronic module to use. Finally a very reliable Hughes Microsystems caliber will integrate all LED watches made by Buler, including the ones in collaboration with Bertone.
The final design of ref.: 01033 will retain the ABS main body with a stainless steel snap back and the shape of the case, but with alterations to the design of the metal panels. These now are smooth and look screwed or riveted to the ABS case body and cover the complete width of the case. The ABS mid-case sides are thus flat and not bevelled on the top. The transparent, red display cover still reaches from side to side as in the mock-up.
It is unclear, why the sticker of a dial manufacturer (Metallique S.A.) is placed on the case back. It can be assumed, that they manufactured the main design element of the watch wich are the horizontally engraved metal plaques and provided the paper and the dummy display. The ‘B’ written in red underneath the case -or prototype reference number can indicate ‘Bertone’, ‘Buler’ or just identify this piece as a version ‘B’ of the prototype.
During the 1970s not only Bertone as car design studio collaborated with watch manufacturers, also Ferrari ordered a limited edition Heuer Chronosplit LCD watches with their logo for distribution to their dealerships, special customers and F1 drivers. Heuer also had a collaboration with Ford in 1977 (2, 3).
Ref.:
Electric Watch Prototypes 